Force fetch training is training your dog to fetch or pick up a dummy, bird, or other object on command. The purpose of force fetch training is to prevent the dog from dropping the birds, having a hard mouth, and create a disciplined behavior.
Start your lab pup by never allowing them to drop the dummy or bird. The behavior you are looking for for is the delivery of the dummy or bird to your hand. You should start this behavior at an early age. When the puppy is retrieving never advance to the puppy. Stand still or take a step back as the pup returns to you with the dummy. Puppies naturally love to chase and be chased. If you go to the puppy as he is returning in the retrieve he will have a tendency to turn and playfully run from you. Use the former and move away from the pup a step or two as he retrieves the dummy.
Attach a 6 foot length cord to the puppy's collar. When the puppy comes to you, crouch down and gently place your hand under the puppy's chin to reinforce the holding of the dummy. Praise the pup as he holds the dummy in his mouth. Then take the check cord and guide him to the heel position. After the pup is in heel position with the bird or dummy in his mouth praise and reward the dog. Repeat this exercise until it becomes a natural sequence for the dog to fetch, hold the dummy, and take a heel and sit position. Do not take the bird or dummy until the dog has completed the series of steps and is in a heel sit position.
We recommend you use a canvas dummy. Using a plastic dummy increases the probability that you will have problems with the pup not wanting to deliver to hand. Plastic dummies are slippery when wet and not as comfortable for the dog to carry.
About the Author
If you want to learn more about Thorncreek services contact Diane Koontz at http://www.thorncreekkennels.com
puppies for dummies
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Chewing is a normal stage of puppy behaviour, don't get a puppy if losing your best shoes and the legs off your furniture is going to bother you. Their teeth and gums hurt and they also like to experiment with new things. A baby has a dummy or a teething ring, what does your dog have?
If you have a young dog who is in the chewing phase (and remember for some breeds that is a long time) don't leave it in a cage with nothing to do. A sterile environment will drive your puppy mad and it could hurt itself chewing the cage. If you use a cage it is a good idea to always reward the dog for going in with a chew. Cages can be a very good way of containing a puppy. Although rare, there are cases of puppies being killed through chewing hazardous cleaning chemicals or electric cables. Safety is paramount.
There is no point in having dozens of toys out all over the house and expecting your dog to chew them when you leave. If those toys are accessible all the time then they are not very interesting when you are out. That is the moment the dog will go and find all the different things to chew up. It is better to have several toys out and every few days swap them for some other ones and keep doing that. Leave a chew or bone or a filled Kong. You can use an activity ball or other type and fill it with treats. A few small cubes of cheese make that more rewarding for the dog too. It can't work out why occasionally a lovely piece of cheese comes out.
If you use a specific treat, toy or bone to amuse your dog when left, always remove it when you return. Your dog will soon realise these special things only exist when you are out. With limited access, they tend to appreciate the toy or food more.
One of my favourite tricks is to give the dog a chew or bone in a taped up cardboard box. The dog will love chewing up the box to get at the treat and the whole thing is much more rewarding than just a chew.
Make sure your dog is occupied and preferably tired when you leave. Older dogs can chew out of boredom. A walk before you go to work or even a good play in the garden can tire them out. Some dogs like having a radio or tv left on or an old shirt of yours with your smell.
Clever and working breeds like to learn things. They need more mental exercise than physical. You can teach most dogs some simple but fun games.
Dogs can learn the names of several toys, some are better at this than others. Take a toy, let's say a rope and throw it, saying "fetch rope". Do this plenty of times. Then pick up another type of toy, let's say a ball and have one in each hand. Then letting the dog see both, throw the rope and use the command "fetch rope". At some point throw the ball instead and say nothing. If the dog gets it, just ignore it, throw the rope and command again. Then start throwing both toys and make a point of helping him or her to pick the rope. Once this is reliable, you can start again using a different toy from scratch. Dogs love working out which is the right toy and it is more stimulating than just fetching the nearest toy. In advance you can hide the one you intend to ask for to make it more challenging.
Lots of dogs are good at scenting out things. You can use this normal behaviour to make life more interesting by hiding chews and treats around the house. Under cushions or rugs or even spread a newspaper all over the floor, overlapping the pages a little. Hide a treat underneath and watch your dog trash the paper to get it and have great fun.
Another version of this is to get several plastic plant pots. Just take one to start with and let your dog see you put a treat underneath. Encourage the dog to turn over the pot to get the treat. Some dogs pick this up immediately, some use brute force and push the pot all over before realising they have to flip it. Once the dog gets the idea, introduce more pots and let the dog work out which one actually has the food. If the dog gets too good, buy heavier pots! You can also extend this for the dogs that need more work. Place the pots in different places around the garden rather than all together on the patio. Initially walk round with the dog, pointing at the pots as you find them. If you have done the original game properly the dog will realise that the pot means check for a treat. Eventually you should be able to send the dog off round the garden to find the pots and work out where the treat is. Always pick the pot up and put them away afterwards. The dog will lose interest if it keeps finding empty pots when you are not playing.
You can play a sort of fetch the human game too. This is also very useful if you are incredibly lazy! Get your partner to stand just outside the room and tell the dog, "go find X". The idea is that "X" will call the dog and praise it. You could teach the dog to bark or touch the person with a paw. Once the dog gets the idea, get the person to hide in a slightly more difficult place and not call the dog and so on. Only when the dog is reliably searching for the person can you swap people and names. The dog will enjoy scenting around and listening for clues.
I am sure that if you use your imagination you can think of lots of variations on this. Exercise, entertainment and attention make a happy dog.
About the Author
Debbie Connolly has worked with dog and cats for 25 years in all sorts of areas. Boarding, training, rescue and behaviour. She stars in the BBC TV series "Dog Borstal" and gives media interviews regarding dog issues. She is an Associate Member of the British Institute of Professional Dog Trainers and is the behaviour consultant for Bengal Cat Rescue and Zep the Dep Rottweiler Rescue. Currently writing articles for a well known glossy Dog Magazine, she also writes about being single and has a humorous slant on most things. Originally from the North East, she is a straight talking, from the hip person and doesn't suffer fools! Debbie loves horses but is a very nervous rider and frequently falls off. She has an ambition to own a smallholding one day and have pygmy goats. Her father was Irish by birth and she is soon to start some clinics in Southern Ireland although she would love to work in the USA. One day she would like to retire to France, "to live on wine, bread and cheese and sit in Paris cafes all day" http://www.debbieconnolly.co.uk
How to Control Your Puppy's Mouthing For Dummies
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Hunting Dogs: Essential Training Equipment and Information
Producing a "finished" hunting dog, one that will perform the tasks of pointing out game or retrieving game, is not a simple matter. In some cases, it can take several hunting seasons and specialized training equipment to achieve the desired results.
It would be ludicrous to begin training a dog to perform hunting skills without first teaching it basic obedience. Your dog must be able to sit, stay, remain quite and come on demand before moving into the more complex areas of the hunt. The success of the hunt, as well as the safety of the dog and its handler, is directly correlated to the dog's performance and self control. For example, an unruly dog that barks at incoming geese will not only spoil the hunt, but will not be invited back again. Further, a dog that bolts out of a blind too quickly can jeopardize a shot and even cause a shooting accident. Control is most essential.
When the hunter is ready to begin training his dog for the hunt, there is a variety of equipment that will prove valuable. Probably the first and most essential item is a piece of 3/8-inch polypropylene rope of about 30 feet in length. The rope allows the handler to maintain control of his dog during exercises and eliminates the chance of having to chase the dog and correct him for straying.
Most dogs have a natural fear of loud noises, especially gunfire. Therefore, the trainer will have to involve a training pistol or firearm in his training program. A handgun is preferable; a shotgun is too large and difficult to handle while holding the lead line and juggling other training devices. When training the retriever, training "bumpers" or dummies are utilized to teach the dog to fetch. These aides come in various colors and sizes. White bumpers are generally used for "marking" drills where the dog is being taught to retrieve by sight and colored bumpers are used for "running blinds" where the dog is sent blindly into an area to retrieve a downed bird that fell out of sight.
The retriever should be trained to respond to the sound of a whistle. The voice of the dog's handler will not always be loud enough or distinct enough to alert the dog to give up the search and return to the handler's side. Some of the more elaborate whistles come with built-in megaphones that allow the sound to be heard more easily and direct the blaring sound away from the hunter(s). They are usually well worth the extra cost.
Some trainers will use a friend or "bird boys" who position themselves some distance from the trainer and toss the bumpers high into the air to simulate a falling bird. For those who train without assistance, bird launchers are a big help. These launchers come in single or multiple bird capacity; however, they are usually bulky and can be expensive.
Electric dog training collars are effective but controversial. These collars have a small electronic device attached that administers a remote controlled mild electric shock to the dog. The control is hand held by the trainer. These pieces of equipment allow an immediate correction when the dog fails to respond to the more conventional command. The level of shock involved has been compared to the static shock one receives from a carpet or from touching a car door handle in cold weather. Actually, the electric collar could be considered a humane alternative to the aggressive tactics or brute force used by some trainers.
One of the best ways to embark on training your hunting dog is learn from the experts. Training tips and guidelines are now available on tapes that show the student step by step training procedures. These instructional tapes should be on every novice trainer's list of essential training equipment.
When you're training your dog in the wilds you should be prepared to care for him if he is injured. Therefore, the final thing on our list of essentials is a First Aid Kit. Many of the items you'll need for your dog are also appropriate for use on humans, so the kit can be mutually beneficial to both you and your dog. Fill the kit with such items as: sterile bandages, topical solutions, tape, scissors, tweezers, antibiotic ointments such as Neosporin, ibuprofen (safe for both humans and canines) and possibly a veterinarian prescribed anti-inflammatory such as Deramaxx or Rimadly. A well stocked First Aid Kit has prevented many a pleasant hunting trip from becoming a nightmare.
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[simpleaffiliate source="chitika" results="0"][/simpleaffiliate] Dog Training for a new solo owner??????????
My family has given me a few books for dog training. One is Dog training for dummies and the other is Caesars' Way by Caesar Milan. I want to try training my german shepherd/lab mix by myself but worried it might be too late....she's 1 1/2 yrs old and I got her a few months ago. I really just want her to be able to go to places with me like a friends house and not worry that she is going to bite people....as you can tell this recently happened but pretty sure it was just that she was scared and had never been to my friends house before.
Its never to late to train a dog...
You'll notice with reading about training that there are many different types and ways ppl prefer to train.
Look no further for the best Halloween party ideas for teenagers! It funny, they are too old for trick-or-treating but still want to celebrate with something fun and scary!
Can we blame them?
The best way to keep your teen out of trouble on Halloween is to have a teen Halloween party!
I know, just the thought can be frightening! But it really doesn't have to be difficult, and just think, you could end up having a blast yourself.
Teen Halloween party ideas for teenagers are not always easy to come up with, but that's why we are here. To share only ideas that have been done...and fun was had by all!
Since planning is the key to a successful teen parties, I always get a team together. This is usually the teen throwing the party and one or two friends. Oh, and me, of course. I'm not completely crazy!
Assemble the Team
* Give each team member a job and a fun title. We assign a decorations supervisor, a musical genius, an entertainment supervisor, a top chef and an invitation creator. Now, they do work together, it's just fun to have them be "in charge" so they can focus on making sure their job has been done.
* Watch the guest list! The last thing you want is the entire freshman class coming in your house! Determine how many kids you think is enough and give the team that number. Have the team put together a guest list of kids that will not cause any trouble and only the amount of kids you have agreed on.
* Another idea is to have a Halloween party theme costume party, like the 1950s Halloween costume party, or maybe scary movie Villains.
* Send invitations early so guests have some time to put together a great costume. Especially if you're going with a theme!
Decide on a Menu
Planning the menu for a teen Halloween party can be a total blast! Mostly because they love stuff that it completely gross!
So, what kind of food do you want to serve? You can plan your menu based on a Halloween party theme or just prepare the gross stuff that teens will love.
Here are great Halloween party food ideas to try!
* Blood dip
* Eyeball doughnuts
* Scabs and zits
* Mummy Dogs
* Severed finger cookies
* Spiders
* and more...
Set the Scene
Now it's time to decorate for dread! you need some awesome Halloween decor and party supplies. In order to make the scene scary, you will need pick up a few things. Here are some easy, low cost ways to decorate to scare!
* Create an eerie entrance. Make sure your lawn has gravestones with the names of the guests on them. Lot's of plastic or rubber spiders on the ground and hanging by the doorway. It's also fun to have a scary dummy with a bloody ax in his head or knife in its chest. And don't forget the scary noises track and black light!
* Candles are great- lots of them! All around the house. Be safe though!
* Black crows and birds are great for the spook factor!
* Carved pumpkins lit up create a scary atmosphere. Put them outside and have a few inside as well.
* Lightening is really important. You need just enough to see, but not too much or you don't have the air of mystery. Black lights and strobes are fun and of course, orange and black candles!
Halloween Party Music
How important is the Halloween party music? It will make or break the party! So, be sure your musical genius takes this job seriously! You will need some great creepy Halloween party music for your teen Halloween party!
Halloween Games for Teens
When thinking about Halloween party ideas for teenagers, you know that spooky entertainment is a must. So, here are a few favorite Halloween games and activities for teens!
* Cream pie eating contest
* fortune telling
* Scary movies
* Halloween scavenger hunt
* Pumpkin bowling
* Mummy races
* Relay Races
* Bobbing for apples
Halloween parties are a great time to let your imagination get wild! We hope you find some great Halloween party ideas for teenagers right here!
[simpleaffiliate source="chitika" results="0"][/simpleaffiliate] I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice on housetraining a chihuahua puppy (6wks old)?
I am trying to keep her in her pet taxi (large one) while we are unable to watch her but she screams and it breaks my heart. I feel like I have to pick her up. I have a puppy pad in the taxi with her. I started her out in the bathroom but she still went in the floor instead of the pad unless I made her get on the pad. I also put her in the bathtub today while at work and she didn't use the pad. She will use it during the night (in the taxi only) but when we are home she wont use it. I can take her out of the taxi and put her on a pad and she will not use it but then she will go in the floor as soon as she walks off the pad. I know she is only 6 weeks old and she will have to learn but can someone tell me some step by step instructions on how to house train her. I need one of those books for dummies I think.
I love the book "The art of raising a pupppy". There's some great advice in there.
Stop picking up your chi every time she cries. This is the root of the "yappy, agressive chihuahua" behavior. Teach her to listen to you when you say "no".
1) 1st thing in the am get her out of her crate and take her outside on her leash. Tell her "go potty". Repeat the command until she potties. If she won't put her back into her taxi and wait 5 minutes, then repeat. If she does..
2) Take her inside with you, but be sure she does not leave your side. Gate her into the room you are in, etc, but do not give her an opportunity to make a mistake.
3) take her out about every 30-45 minutes for now. As she gets more successful you can gradually increase the time. If on any of her trips outside she does not potty, repeat the steps in step 1.
Remember, give her every opportunity to succeed!! Praise, praise, praise when she does. When she makes a mistake, don't make a big deal out of it, just resolve to keep a better eye on her and get her out more. If at any time you cannot watch her, she must be in her taxi.
Best of luck with the new baby!!!
Dog Training 101: Bracing Your Dog or Puppy
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[simpleaffiliate source="chitika" results="0"][/simpleaffiliate] Why is my dog not retrieving today?
I have a 13 week old chocolate lab. I've been working with him for exactly a week. I'll throw the dummy and he'll bring it back and drop it right in front of me. Today he doesn't want to listen. I throw the dummy and he will slowly go get it, slowly bring it back, then drop it about 3 feet short of me and walk up to me demanding his treat. Sometimes he won't even get it. What is wrong with him today? Is this normal while training labs? Is he just being lazy today? Any suggestions on breaking of this. Quitting is not an option, neither is putting it off for a couple days. I am training him for birdhunting and retrieving competitions. This is my first time to train a dog, so I am kinda wingin it..
Not so much being lazy, but dog's have off days, just as people do. As a trainer, I recommend you to go back a few steps in training...sounds like a step has been missed in training. Go back to the beginning, don't click or say Yes! until he gets all the way back to you and drops it...he may be thinking he is finished early, thats why he is dropping it early and expecting a treat...try being quiet until he gets all the way to you and drops it, then marking his behavior and rewarding
Dog Training For Dummies Paperback
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