Force fetch training is training your dog to fetch or pick up a dummy, bird, or other object on command. The purpose of force fetch training is to prevent the dog from dropping the birds, having a hard mouth, and create a disciplined behavior.
Start your lab pup by never allowing them to drop the dummy or bird. The behavior you are looking for for is the delivery of the dummy or bird to your hand. You should start this behavior at an early age. When the puppy is retrieving never advance to the puppy. Stand still or take a step back as the pup returns to you with the dummy. Puppies naturally love to chase and be chased. If you go to the puppy as he is returning in the retrieve he will have a tendency to turn and playfully run from you. Use the former and move away from the pup a step or two as he retrieves the dummy.
Attach a 6 foot length cord to the puppy's collar. When the puppy comes to you, crouch down and gently place your hand under the puppy's chin to reinforce the holding of the dummy. Praise the pup as he holds the dummy in his mouth. Then take the check cord and guide him to the heel position. After the pup is in heel position with the bird or dummy in his mouth praise and reward the dog. Repeat this exercise until it becomes a natural sequence for the dog to fetch, hold the dummy, and take a heel and sit position. Do not take the bird or dummy until the dog has completed the series of steps and is in a heel sit position.
We recommend you use a canvas dummy. Using a plastic dummy increases the probability that you will have problems with the pup not wanting to deliver to hand. Plastic dummies are slippery when wet and not as comfortable for the dog to carry.
About the Author
If you want to learn more about Thorncreek services contact Diane Koontz at http://www.thorncreekkennels.com
puppies for dummies
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So you have passed your initial police exam and you are ready for the next stage of the police hiring process. Usually after passing the exam, your police physical fitness test will be that same week. Each test may be a little different as far as what is expected of you, but I will give a quick rundown of what I experienced during my multiple fitness tests.
INTRO
Coming to any police fitness test, please make sure you at least do some exercise. Don't think that because when you were a kid and could run for days that you can still do the same as an adult that hasn't done much exercise in the years since. I talked to a few applicants at the tests and some of them openly admitted that they did not do any exercise but felt that the police fitness test would be a joke (many were wrong with that assumption). One guy told me that he played paintball on the weekends so he didn't need to exercise (he couldn't jump the 6ft wall). You don't need to be Mr. Triathlon or anything but understand that it takes some effort.
TESTS
All the tests but one that I took consisted of a timed obstacle course and a run, the obstacle course had to be completed within two minutes thirty seconds and the runs had to be completed within fifteen minutes(1.5 miles).
OBSTACLE COURSE
The course starts out with the applicant running in between bars then up and down a ladder. After this you must run between some cones then run up and down about 150 stairs (this burns your calves). You will then proceed to jump a 3ft 4ft and 6ft wall. After this you will be a little exhausted and winded but your almost done. After the walls there will be a 150lb dummy that you have to drag around 20 ft or so. The end leg of the test is a 200 yard dash and you're finished.
Of the people that failed the course, most could not make it over the 6ft wall. Women seemed to have a problem with the dummy drag, so be aware of these two things
THE RUN
This wasn't bad at all, but a few people did fail. Weeks before the test just see where you stand then go from there with your running times. Don't be the person that hasn't run in years and expects to breeze through the 1.5 mile run within.
CONCLUSION
The police physical fitness test isn't hard at all if you do any practice for it. Expect to be at the testing site ALL DAY, not only is there the fitness test but you also have to fill out a 40 page PHS (personal history statement) of your life, more on the PHS later. Be somewhat in shape and you'll do fine.
EMT Kona Week 2010 Tuesday: The Ironman World Championship for Dummies
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[simpleaffiliate source="chitika" results="0"][/simpleaffiliate] What Parts Of The ASVAB Count The Most For The Army?
I've Gotten The ASVAB 4 Dummies Book It's Helping Alot I Just Was Wondering What Part Or Parts Are The Most Important To Get Right. Im TRYING MY Best To Get In to The Army A Be A Radiologist. Thanks Ladies And Gents In Advance.
A radiology specialist (MOS 68P) requires an ST score of 110. This score is derived from the four following tests on the ASVAB: GS, VE, MK, & MC .
Good luck!
NOTE: VE is Verbal Expression, derived from the WK & PC scores.
Army for dummies episode 1
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Chewing is a normal stage of puppy behaviour, don't get a puppy if losing your best shoes and the legs off your furniture is going to bother you. Their teeth and gums hurt and they also like to experiment with new things. A baby has a dummy or a teething ring, what does your dog have?
If you have a young dog who is in the chewing phase (and remember for some breeds that is a long time) don't leave it in a cage with nothing to do. A sterile environment will drive your puppy mad and it could hurt itself chewing the cage. If you use a cage it is a good idea to always reward the dog for going in with a chew. Cages can be a very good way of containing a puppy. Although rare, there are cases of puppies being killed through chewing hazardous cleaning chemicals or electric cables. Safety is paramount.
There is no point in having dozens of toys out all over the house and expecting your dog to chew them when you leave. If those toys are accessible all the time then they are not very interesting when you are out. That is the moment the dog will go and find all the different things to chew up. It is better to have several toys out and every few days swap them for some other ones and keep doing that. Leave a chew or bone or a filled Kong. You can use an activity ball or other type and fill it with treats. A few small cubes of cheese make that more rewarding for the dog too. It can't work out why occasionally a lovely piece of cheese comes out.
If you use a specific treat, toy or bone to amuse your dog when left, always remove it when you return. Your dog will soon realise these special things only exist when you are out. With limited access, they tend to appreciate the toy or food more.
One of my favourite tricks is to give the dog a chew or bone in a taped up cardboard box. The dog will love chewing up the box to get at the treat and the whole thing is much more rewarding than just a chew.
Make sure your dog is occupied and preferably tired when you leave. Older dogs can chew out of boredom. A walk before you go to work or even a good play in the garden can tire them out. Some dogs like having a radio or tv left on or an old shirt of yours with your smell.
Clever and working breeds like to learn things. They need more mental exercise than physical. You can teach most dogs some simple but fun games.
Dogs can learn the names of several toys, some are better at this than others. Take a toy, let's say a rope and throw it, saying "fetch rope". Do this plenty of times. Then pick up another type of toy, let's say a ball and have one in each hand. Then letting the dog see both, throw the rope and use the command "fetch rope". At some point throw the ball instead and say nothing. If the dog gets it, just ignore it, throw the rope and command again. Then start throwing both toys and make a point of helping him or her to pick the rope. Once this is reliable, you can start again using a different toy from scratch. Dogs love working out which is the right toy and it is more stimulating than just fetching the nearest toy. In advance you can hide the one you intend to ask for to make it more challenging.
Lots of dogs are good at scenting out things. You can use this normal behaviour to make life more interesting by hiding chews and treats around the house. Under cushions or rugs or even spread a newspaper all over the floor, overlapping the pages a little. Hide a treat underneath and watch your dog trash the paper to get it and have great fun.
Another version of this is to get several plastic plant pots. Just take one to start with and let your dog see you put a treat underneath. Encourage the dog to turn over the pot to get the treat. Some dogs pick this up immediately, some use brute force and push the pot all over before realising they have to flip it. Once the dog gets the idea, introduce more pots and let the dog work out which one actually has the food. If the dog gets too good, buy heavier pots! You can also extend this for the dogs that need more work. Place the pots in different places around the garden rather than all together on the patio. Initially walk round with the dog, pointing at the pots as you find them. If you have done the original game properly the dog will realise that the pot means check for a treat. Eventually you should be able to send the dog off round the garden to find the pots and work out where the treat is. Always pick the pot up and put them away afterwards. The dog will lose interest if it keeps finding empty pots when you are not playing.
You can play a sort of fetch the human game too. This is also very useful if you are incredibly lazy! Get your partner to stand just outside the room and tell the dog, "go find X". The idea is that "X" will call the dog and praise it. You could teach the dog to bark or touch the person with a paw. Once the dog gets the idea, get the person to hide in a slightly more difficult place and not call the dog and so on. Only when the dog is reliably searching for the person can you swap people and names. The dog will enjoy scenting around and listening for clues.
I am sure that if you use your imagination you can think of lots of variations on this. Exercise, entertainment and attention make a happy dog.
About the Author
Debbie Connolly has worked with dog and cats for 25 years in all sorts of areas. Boarding, training, rescue and behaviour. She stars in the BBC TV series "Dog Borstal" and gives media interviews regarding dog issues. She is an Associate Member of the British Institute of Professional Dog Trainers and is the behaviour consultant for Bengal Cat Rescue and Zep the Dep Rottweiler Rescue. Currently writing articles for a well known glossy Dog Magazine, she also writes about being single and has a humorous slant on most things. Originally from the North East, she is a straight talking, from the hip person and doesn't suffer fools! Debbie loves horses but is a very nervous rider and frequently falls off. She has an ambition to own a smallholding one day and have pygmy goats. Her father was Irish by birth and she is soon to start some clinics in Southern Ireland although she would love to work in the USA. One day she would like to retire to France, "to live on wine, bread and cheese and sit in Paris cafes all day" http://www.debbieconnolly.co.uk
How to Control Your Puppy's Mouthing For Dummies
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40 Top Article Submission Sites, With Page Rank, Alexa Rank, Compete.com Unique Users, and Google Search Queries
Writing and syndicating original articles is one of the best ways to increase your search standings on Google. Not all article submission sites are equal, however. Here are the top 40 article submission sites.
Blogsimplified, a great place to find simple Wordpress themes and ideas, did the work so you don’t have to.
The article submission sites are listed and ranked by Google PageRank, Alexa rank, monthly unique users on Compete.com, and search volume for phrases containing the domain name as determined by the Google keyword tool in Adwords.
We looked through every decent book on Search Engine Optimization, including Search Engine Optimization for Dummies, and a number of the leading sites including SEOmoz.com and SEOBook.com, and a number of articles listing the top article submission sites.
All the lists we could find were terribly out of date. Many of the sites listed on the top SEO sites went to spammy sites that wanted to sell you an ebook or training course. Most of the sites listed in Search Engine Optimization for Dummies, published just a year ago, were simply out of business.
Many blogs and ezines pick up content from the top article sites and republish it. One common question about syndicating your content through article submission sites is the following: Doesn’t this duplicate the article all over the web and thereby reduce search standing?
Syndicating articles does create lots of duplicate content, but if you craft your articles with carefully keyworded links back to your page, then the net effect is that your page should rank higher, and you should gain lots of new backlinks and exposure on the web.
Hopefully this list is useful. Please leave a comment at http://blogsimplified.com if you find any good sites that we missed.
Article Submission Site is the name of the website where authors can submit articles and website publishers can get free content. Page Rank is Google's measure of standing based on the quality of incoming links to the page. Higher Page Rank is better.
Alexa Rank is Amazon.com's way of ranking sites. Lower is better.
Compete.com measures the monthly unique users to the site. Higher is better.
Search volume is based on Google's Keyword tool. In this case, We looked at how many Google searches in an average month included the domain name in the search string. It is generally a pretty good indicator of the brand recognition of the site.
Blogsimplified.com is where I write about new things I learn that help me blog, like simple and minimalist Wordpress themes, sharing with social media, search engine optimization, and writing articles. I hope what I learn along the way can help you too!
Hunting Dogs: Essential Training Equipment and Information
Producing a "finished" hunting dog, one that will perform the tasks of pointing out game or retrieving game, is not a simple matter. In some cases, it can take several hunting seasons and specialized training equipment to achieve the desired results.
It would be ludicrous to begin training a dog to perform hunting skills without first teaching it basic obedience. Your dog must be able to sit, stay, remain quite and come on demand before moving into the more complex areas of the hunt. The success of the hunt, as well as the safety of the dog and its handler, is directly correlated to the dog's performance and self control. For example, an unruly dog that barks at incoming geese will not only spoil the hunt, but will not be invited back again. Further, a dog that bolts out of a blind too quickly can jeopardize a shot and even cause a shooting accident. Control is most essential.
When the hunter is ready to begin training his dog for the hunt, there is a variety of equipment that will prove valuable. Probably the first and most essential item is a piece of 3/8-inch polypropylene rope of about 30 feet in length. The rope allows the handler to maintain control of his dog during exercises and eliminates the chance of having to chase the dog and correct him for straying.
Most dogs have a natural fear of loud noises, especially gunfire. Therefore, the trainer will have to involve a training pistol or firearm in his training program. A handgun is preferable; a shotgun is too large and difficult to handle while holding the lead line and juggling other training devices. When training the retriever, training "bumpers" or dummies are utilized to teach the dog to fetch. These aides come in various colors and sizes. White bumpers are generally used for "marking" drills where the dog is being taught to retrieve by sight and colored bumpers are used for "running blinds" where the dog is sent blindly into an area to retrieve a downed bird that fell out of sight.
The retriever should be trained to respond to the sound of a whistle. The voice of the dog's handler will not always be loud enough or distinct enough to alert the dog to give up the search and return to the handler's side. Some of the more elaborate whistles come with built-in megaphones that allow the sound to be heard more easily and direct the blaring sound away from the hunter(s). They are usually well worth the extra cost.
Some trainers will use a friend or "bird boys" who position themselves some distance from the trainer and toss the bumpers high into the air to simulate a falling bird. For those who train without assistance, bird launchers are a big help. These launchers come in single or multiple bird capacity; however, they are usually bulky and can be expensive.
Electric dog training collars are effective but controversial. These collars have a small electronic device attached that administers a remote controlled mild electric shock to the dog. The control is hand held by the trainer. These pieces of equipment allow an immediate correction when the dog fails to respond to the more conventional command. The level of shock involved has been compared to the static shock one receives from a carpet or from touching a car door handle in cold weather. Actually, the electric collar could be considered a humane alternative to the aggressive tactics or brute force used by some trainers.
One of the best ways to embark on training your hunting dog is learn from the experts. Training tips and guidelines are now available on tapes that show the student step by step training procedures. These instructional tapes should be on every novice trainer's list of essential training equipment.
When you're training your dog in the wilds you should be prepared to care for him if he is injured. Therefore, the final thing on our list of essentials is a First Aid Kit. Many of the items you'll need for your dog are also appropriate for use on humans, so the kit can be mutually beneficial to both you and your dog. Fill the kit with such items as: sterile bandages, topical solutions, tape, scissors, tweezers, antibiotic ointments such as Neosporin, ibuprofen (safe for both humans and canines) and possibly a veterinarian prescribed anti-inflammatory such as Deramaxx or Rimadly. A well stocked First Aid Kit has prevented many a pleasant hunting trip from becoming a nightmare.
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[simpleaffiliate source="chitika" results="0"][/simpleaffiliate] Dog Training for a new solo owner??????????
My family has given me a few books for dog training. One is Dog training for dummies and the other is Caesars' Way by Caesar Milan. I want to try training my german shepherd/lab mix by myself but worried it might be too late....she's 1 1/2 yrs old and I got her a few months ago. I really just want her to be able to go to places with me like a friends house and not worry that she is going to bite people....as you can tell this recently happened but pretty sure it was just that she was scared and had never been to my friends house before.
Its never to late to train a dog...
You'll notice with reading about training that there are many different types and ways ppl prefer to train.
[simpleaffiliate source="chitika" results="0"][/simpleaffiliate] I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice on housetraining a chihuahua puppy (6wks old)?
I am trying to keep her in her pet taxi (large one) while we are unable to watch her but she screams and it breaks my heart. I feel like I have to pick her up. I have a puppy pad in the taxi with her. I started her out in the bathroom but she still went in the floor instead of the pad unless I made her get on the pad. I also put her in the bathtub today while at work and she didn't use the pad. She will use it during the night (in the taxi only) but when we are home she wont use it. I can take her out of the taxi and put her on a pad and she will not use it but then she will go in the floor as soon as she walks off the pad. I know she is only 6 weeks old and she will have to learn but can someone tell me some step by step instructions on how to house train her. I need one of those books for dummies I think.
I love the book "The art of raising a pupppy". There's some great advice in there.
Stop picking up your chi every time she cries. This is the root of the "yappy, agressive chihuahua" behavior. Teach her to listen to you when you say "no".
1) 1st thing in the am get her out of her crate and take her outside on her leash. Tell her "go potty". Repeat the command until she potties. If she won't put her back into her taxi and wait 5 minutes, then repeat. If she does..
2) Take her inside with you, but be sure she does not leave your side. Gate her into the room you are in, etc, but do not give her an opportunity to make a mistake.
3) take her out about every 30-45 minutes for now. As she gets more successful you can gradually increase the time. If on any of her trips outside she does not potty, repeat the steps in step 1.
Remember, give her every opportunity to succeed!! Praise, praise, praise when she does. When she makes a mistake, don't make a big deal out of it, just resolve to keep a better eye on her and get her out more. If at any time you cannot watch her, she must be in her taxi.
Best of luck with the new baby!!!
Dog Training 101: Bracing Your Dog or Puppy
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[simpleaffiliate source="chitika" results="0"][/simpleaffiliate] Why is my dog not retrieving today?
I have a 13 week old chocolate lab. I've been working with him for exactly a week. I'll throw the dummy and he'll bring it back and drop it right in front of me. Today he doesn't want to listen. I throw the dummy and he will slowly go get it, slowly bring it back, then drop it about 3 feet short of me and walk up to me demanding his treat. Sometimes he won't even get it. What is wrong with him today? Is this normal while training labs? Is he just being lazy today? Any suggestions on breaking of this. Quitting is not an option, neither is putting it off for a couple days. I am training him for birdhunting and retrieving competitions. This is my first time to train a dog, so I am kinda wingin it..
Not so much being lazy, but dog's have off days, just as people do. As a trainer, I recommend you to go back a few steps in training...sounds like a step has been missed in training. Go back to the beginning, don't click or say Yes! until he gets all the way back to you and drops it...he may be thinking he is finished early, thats why he is dropping it early and expecting a treat...try being quiet until he gets all the way to you and drops it, then marking his behavior and rewarding
Dog Training For Dummies Paperback
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